8:30 a.m. snorkel trip with Amy on a glass-bottom boat named “Children’s Bread” with pilot shorty. Three miles out to coral reef. Angel fish, long skinny trumpet fish, sargent majors. Brain coral, fan coral, every kind of coral. Water like a bathtub. Amy was a champ, not afraid at all. Stunning in every way except that all the recent storms have left water a bit murkier than usual (which means “only” 40 feet rather than 150).
Move up the beach to next stop Kuyaba. Several pack mule trips, bags on our backs, infant car seats, crib, and Miles gear in addition to our own. Afternoon tropical squall, caught in huge downpour. Huge. Babies needed naps, snafu with room reservation. Chaotic and yet awesome. Chilled out w swim in warm pouring rain silver beads popping off the surface.
Roger and me off to find jerk pork. “Ossie’s Jerk Shack” was recommended, heard it was .5 mile. Actually walked 2.5. Can anyone here judge distances? Ossie’s a ramshackle structure on side of road. Sweaty, but they had only one Red Stripe left for R and I to share. Breadfruit, melon and carrot juices. 1 lb. each jerk chicken and pork, consumed with gusto with families on our porch at Kuyaba.
Walk down beach to craft fair. Much hustle, and amazing how one booth after another offer identical merchandise – how do they differentiate / compete? But some great artistry comes through. Met “Sister Love, and older woman who wanted to heal Miles’ many mosquito bites (babies’ fresh blood attracts even more mosquitos than we’re getting) w fresh aloe. Hacked off stalk with machete from tiny plot in tiny back yard. “Brother John” carved amazing turtle tureens.
Sunset dinner of sauteed conch and penne.
Later out w Roger to take in a bit of Negril nightlife. Live reggae at Bourbon Beach — Marley / Tosh imitators – the resort towns play Marley / Tosh almost to the exclusion of the vast universe of Jamaican reggae, a pity. But turn the dial on hotel radio to find one great reggae station after another.
Contortionst “Mancablan” ripped like Iggy Pop, the greatest pretzel man and fire eater I’d ever seen. Silver dreadlocks. Claims to be 60 no 73 no 87 no 92 yrs old, and has two new kids. Strength and balance like Cirque du Soleil. To the music. Drinking Jamaican rum now.