For the first time in 20 years, spent some of my winter vacation surfing in Morro Bay. Felt glorious to feel waves crashing over my head on the way out, to smell fresh wax rising up into my nostrils (smell has such an amazing ability to evoke personal history), to drop in on glassy faces I hadn’t seen in decades… like being back in high school, though I won’t pretend it was still second nature.
Note to self: Despite the lies I tell myself in order to not feel old, my body makes its point all-too clearly: I’m not a 17-year-old surfer boy anymore. My lower body is still in shape thanks to biking, but surfing is mostly torso strength, and mine’s gone to seed. Back, shoulders, delts and lats still aching five days later. It would take weeks or months of water hours to return to the comfort level I once had. Still, felt great to not feel like that chapter is closed forever. Small handful of Flickr pix.